You've probably seen the pleas for fosters, and if you are involved enough with rescue to read the pleas, you most likely understand there is an unending number of dogs that need warm places to lay their heads until they find their forever homes. It's true. However, just because there is a need for foster homes, doesn't mean everyone has the environment to truly give a dog a 'foster home'.
So, in this blog, I'll answer a few questions and give a brief overview of what fostering is all about, the good points, the bad points, and most importantly, the points you should consider before becoming a foster parent. In no way do I mean to scare you away from fostering -all in all, I will steer you towards fostering!, but I've been in a position or two where I've bit off more than I can chew and know its definitely not an 'all flowers' experience. You might go in thinking you're going to be a hero, but unfortunately for your ego, the dogs don't see it quite that way...
So,
What you should have set-up if you want to become a Foster Parent:
#1
Time. Some dogs can go 8 hour work-days without your company, but especially for dogs in transition between homes, I'd recommend only being out 4-5 hours a day at most. Of course its all individual dog dependent, but usually foster dogs require at least some degree of supervision most of the time. This is how you will get to know them, and how you will know what kind of home they need to find.
#2
Patience. Yes some dogs are housetrained, yes, a lot of dogs know their manners, yes, they're not all complete spazzes. And yes, rescue dogs are still awesome dogs. But like with most things in transition, things slip. Expect some accidents, some sadness, some of everything you don't really like. Chewing, whining, barking, excitement, whatever. Really, be prepared for the worst. More than anything, expect the first week to be a trying experience. Change is hard, both on the dogs, and yourself. Even after 20+ foster dogs, I dread the first week! But with patience and determination, you can make it through.
#3
Know your current Pets! It is all and good to want to foster, but if it's at the expense of your current's pet(s)' happiness, you help one soul to another's dismay and that's not quite fair. There are always other ways to help. But in the foster front, here are some ways to consider the well-being of your current pets before bringing a foster pet in.
If you have a low key couch-potato dog, don't bring in a high-energy husky for example. If you have a dog with high-prey drive, don't bring a Chihuahua home! If you have cats, make sure your potential fosters are screened to be cat-safe and even if they are found to be, only allow pets together with supervision. If you have kids, make sure the dogs are kid-safe. And if you have all three, just keep in the back of your mind that it might take awhile to get dogs into rescue that are good with absolutely everybody. A good rule of thumb is to get foster dogs with similiar or lower energy than your current dog(s). This involves the least amount of change for the current pets. Oh, and don't assume the kind of dogs your dog likes to play with at the dog park are the types of dogs he'd like to have at home! An hour play session is very different than living with someone 24/7. Homecheck people who will screen you as a foster home should be able to meet your dog, and most will be able to tell what kinds of dogs will not be good matches. If you're not sure, ask lots of questions. To be safe, ask to start out with an 'easy' dog.
#4
Assume you're in for the Long Haul. Most foster dogs stay weeks, to maybe 2-3 months, but depending on the dog, you could be looking at 4-6 months, sometimes even longer. So, it's best to plan that your foster will be with you longer than shorter. Rescues rely on their foster homes, and commitment to a long-term foster should definitely be considered. If you're potentially moving, or going on an extended vacation (1-2 weeks most rescues can find temporary foster homes while you're away) it might not be the best time to foster.
#5
Know your Limits. Although this is easier said than done when you're first starting out, just like the lotto, you need to know (or find sometimes) your limits, and play within them. If you only walk 30 minutes a day, know you can't take on a high-energy dog. If you are away more than 1-2 hours a day, know you can't foster puppies. If you understand one breed very well, don't assume you understand all dogs. Some breeds need a firm hand, some are complete softies. And if you're getting into mutts, sometimes you don't know what you're getting into until you're into it. If you know your faults and downfalls, you avoid dogs falling into them and can give the ones that come to you the very best 'you' possible. If you understand some behavioural problems and are willing to work with them, let your rescue know, but also know what you are uncomfortable with. For example, I can not, and will not deal with dog-aggression. I am both inexperienced with handling dog-aggression, and I will not put my own dogs in danger. Some behaviour problems include: seperation anxiety, aggression (food, dog, people), pulling on leash, protectiveness (guarding -toys, people, food-), among others. They vary in intensity, but ask if the potential foster has any behavioural problems to be aware of. This will go a long way to knowing before they come what you might be dealing with, and give you time to say no before they are physically in your home. Of course, as you continue down the fostering road, you become more experienced, and can take on perhaps a more 'difficult' dog. There is no problem starting on the easy side. Better to start easy and continue saving lives than to have a bad experience right off the bat.
#6 Expect Change
Just like any relationship, your relationship with your foster dog will change over time. The first 1-2 weeks will be the hardest, but you can expect your foster dog to be changing for up to 2-3 months even. Some behavioural issues will go away with time, and some behavioural issues can show themselves as time goes on and they see opportunities to push buttons, push barriers or become the leader of the house. Regardless their background, how much they've been through, or how much rehab they need, you need to be firm, but of course, very kind. Establish rules, boundaries and expectations. They might differ from dog to dog, but they need some of these. But mostly, expect to go with the flow. If there's one thing foster dogs are, they can be unpredictable.
#7 Safety System
Whether your yard is fenced or not, dogs in transition can be quick to bolt. They haven't bonded with you yet, they might even be trying to get back to their old people. Regardless of the reason, you and everyone in the household needs to be extra vigiliant about safety around doors and gates. If in a fenced yard I recommend the first few trips to be out on a leash, and slowly with leash dragging. Some dogs can scale 6 feet with ease, or squirm out the tiniest patch. And of course, you should be watching your foster in the yard at all times. They are super quick if they go over or under. If you do not have a yard, practice that a leash MUST be on, and MUST be being held by somebody before a door is opened. Also, while you are away, the safest option for most dogs is to be crated (at least until they prove they are trust-worthy to stay at home unattended). Of course this also depends on the dog, but if you're fostering anybody on the younger side, assume they're destructive until they prove otherwise. Safety prevents so many accidents from happening. Before you consider fostering, consider your safety plans and procedures.
So, if you've read through the seven main points, and think
'okay, I've got that, I know I'm home, I think I know what kinds of dogs I could potentially foster, what next',
time to look into a) Which Rescue you'd like to foster for,
and b) What breeds, sizes, genders, ages you are wanting to foster.
A quick look at your local rescues is a good start to knowing what kind of dogs they save and have for adoption. If you are interested in a certain breed, definitely look up specific breed rescue. If you aren't so picky, there are many, many all-breed rescues. My favourite rescue has everything from 6 pounds to 150 pounds at the same time. To me, its never about breed, age, size, gender, but about how they'll fit in my house. If you're open-minded, look for the qualities you need in a dog, and not the outside package. Of course, the outside package is what draws in adopters, so its something to be aware of to.
So, you've looked through some potential options, (I don't vouch for any, do the homework yourself.), figured out where you want to start. So, you send in your foster application. If you have current pets, please support the rescue where you adopted them, and consider fostering for them. Not only are you already 'pre-approved' (since you've already adopted a dog from them), you pay it forward. They saved your baby, time to help them save more for other adopters :)
Now, don't be disheartened if at the current time they have no one that fits your bill, or if you don't meet certain criteria (some rescues require a fence, some have restrictions on renting, etc, etc). Providing you have #1-7, you CAN foster. And, even if you fit the bill, it can take a week or even a couple of weeks to set you up with your first dog. Most rescues don't have kennels like the SPCA where you can walk and in 'pick' your dog so to speak. Expect it to take a little bit, there's transport and paperwork and a number of things to take into account. (But once you get into the fostering swing, you can be swapped with 'help!' e-mails, so the lull doesn't last long!)
Anyway, once the application is in, within about a week, week and a half, you should be hearing from someone to do a homecheck for you, or, if you're in a smaller area, from the rescue trying to set something up for it.. If it's longer than a week, send a polite reminder e-mail, along with your attached application again (you can't even imagine how many e-mails go through these inboxes, so please don't take offence.) If you don't hear anything within the two week marker (with the e-mail one week as follow-up), my suggestion is to move on to another rescue, as if its really hard to make contact, it might be hard to make contact if your foster dog becomes ill or gets in trouble or runs away (not that these should happen, but you need to be prepared for emergency). You need to be able to get ahold of your rescue in case something happens. Communication is key!
Speaking of communication here are 10 questions to ask of your rescue before you consider having a homecheck, and the preferred answers.
1.
Are animals pre-screened?
(Meaning, does the rescue know if its good with people/dogs/cats/kids)
You do NOT want to get an animal you have no information about. If you are being screened for a certain dog, you need a brief bio, and hopefully a picture or two. You don't need much, but you do need some. If you are just being screened in general, advise the rescue that you need your animals to be pre-screened. (People, other dogs -female and male-, and cats/kids if required.) Even if you don't have any pets of your own currently, you need to know a bit about who you might be taking in. Be wary of taking in a foster animal you have no information about. At the same time, realize that the dog they describe and the one that will come to your home will not be identical in every single attribute. Dogs change a bit in different environments and under the care of different individuals. And don't expect your shy dog to stay shy for too long!
2. What does the Rescue expect of me as a foster home?
They should expect you to keep care of a foster dog like you would of your own. That you will alert them to potential problems, medically or behaviourally, and that you will give them honest information about your foster dog so that they have the best chance at finding their perfect family. Ideally they'd like some pictures from you to help network. They should not expect you to foster a dog 'at all costs', and should, if necessary, have a back-up situation for a foster dog to go to if they do not work out in your home. That said, if you followed 1-5 up above, and the rescue is good at screening, you shouldn't be put in that situation. Shuffling dogs is hard on them. Unless the issues are extreme, please realize you should be continuing with fostering -that is your side of the bargain.
3. What do I need to provide (financially) for a foster dog?
Most rescues cover absolutely everything. Above all, make sure you are not responsible for vet bills! Most rescues provide food, and will provide a crate if you want/need one. Water is up to you. We'll get to it later, but when signing a foster contract, read carefully what is considered 'your fault'. For example, if you were a goober and left a chocolate bar out in the open and the dog got at it, that might be your fault and your responsibility to deal with.
4. Do you have specialists to deal with behavioural problems?
Some rescues have access to trainers, and some do not. The access to the trainers isn't the biggest point however, its the information you need to move forward. For example, dogs that are put off by traffic can benefit from handling skills. Above all, rescues should be able to provide you with enough information -and maybe even a volunteer or two- to help you with some minor problems you might be having. Even if they have all these resources, please don't consider a dog that has many issues you don't know how to deal with. But the resources should be there to figure it out if you need to.
5. Do I get to have final say on whether or not I will foster a certain dog?
The answer to this one is a big resounding YES. Rescues will most likely be trying to pair you up with suitable dogs, and might ask if you would be interested in fostering different dogs. You should have the final say. However, if for some reason you should want to foster a dog that isn't right for your situation, do not take it personally if the rescue would rather not place that dog with you. One tip from the foster front is that I trust the people who have the dog above anyone else. They see the behaviour, they know what they need (just as you will know your foster dog when they come to you). If they wouldn't consider adopting that dog to you, they probably won't consider letting you foster them either. But, back to the main question. You should have the final 'yes' before the dog gets scheduled to come to you. That way, you should be in charge.
6. What happens if something medical passes to my dogs/cats?
It is a reality that many pets from different rescues come with a whole variety of smaller issues. Most common are: fleas, worms and kennel cough. If any of these result -which isn't a big deal all and all, just annoying-, rescue should be willing to provide you with flea prevention or flea bath, (although you really should have your dogs on the flea and tic preventation already :) ), dewormer, and if necessary antibiotics for Kennel Cough for your dogs as well as the rescue's dogs. Most dogs ride out kennel cough without meds, so that would be an unusual situation. For the first week or two, keep an eye on the health of your own dogs as well as the foster dog's. Realistically, you shouldn't be taking in a really ill dog. Of course, just like with people, dogs get sick, so just realize its a possibility, and ask the rescue what they do about cases like that.
7. How do you network? How do you screen adopters?
This might seem like a silly question as you're applying to be a foster home, but how active the rescue is at promoting themselves and their dogs has a big relationship with how quickly they can find the best homes possible. Not that they should be media sluts, but that they have media you can actively follow. Also, you want to know that the adopters are getting adequate screening. You don't want to work with a rescue that will give a dog to basically anybody. If you are in favour of how your homecheck is going, you can assume the same or more stringent measures are made for adopters. But just ask to be on the safe side -it isn't super rare unfortunately for rescues to heavily screen their fosters, but not do much about their adopters, as they feel once they are 'out' that is good enough. Don't settle for good enough!
8. How involved do I get to be in the adoption process?
Most rescues would love their foster homes to be super involved in the process, possibly screening potential adopters and setting up meet+greets. However, if you so choose, you should be able to solely foster and have no contact to potential adopters. Fostering involves a lot of time, and the networking adds more. Rescues should be accomodating that adopters do not need to come to your home to visit the dog available. However, you should be available so that a volunteer can come and bring the dog to vet visits, adoption visits, etc. Also ask how involved they are in promoting their dogs. Website, petfinder, frequent updates and quick adoption rates are keys to look for. Rescues with great media skills get their dogs adopted quicker, end of story.
9. Can I talk to another foster parent?
If you're lucky, your screener might be a foster mum, or have fostered for this rescue in the past. Getting in touch with other foster parents is an awesome way not only to get to know the rescue, but form friendships as well. They should have some experienced foster homes with them, and they will be your biggest allies.
10. What if I fall in love and want to adopt my foster?
Usually, this is a 'yes please, adopt them', but at the same time, if they have a good application in the works, please don't wait until the very last minute to try to adopt them. Word to the wise: wait at least two weeks before saying 'yes' so to speak. The first few days can be bliss, but you haven't seen the full dog in two weeks. Besides, adopting your foster could mean you aren't able to foster again. Think about the other lives you could have helped out. If you're worried about foster failing (or, have the goal of fostering failing somewhere down the line), just ask them how adopting your foster dog works if happens. Most should be good with this arrangement :)
In Closing
Providing you like the answers to these questions and feel comfortable with the rescue you've chosen, continue on to a homecheck and hopefully, on to fostering! However please think carefully about fostering before commiting. Although some rescues sell it as a 'trial' to a real dog, they are real dogs in your care. They should not be considered lightly, or brushed off with 'if it doesn't work, it doesn't matter'. The dogs have already bounced around enough. You should be prepared to have them until they are adopted, and treat them with love and care. Even the easy ones can be a challenge.
Foster dogs can challenge you, but they also introduce you to the world of 'crazy dog people' and you will learn lots of things you never thought about. You will meet people you never would have met, and gained some sense of (crazy!) community. Most importantly, you will find that in doing a heroic deed, you meet a lot of heroic dogs. Plus, its always smashing good fun if you get to meet them down the road and have small reunions. Meeting a previous foster dog at the dog park who recognizes you and darts down the beach -there is no other better feeling.
Foster on!
